A 47 km paddling loop through 12 lakes and 13 portages in the old-growth temperate rainforest northwest of Campbell River. No permits required, first-come campsites, and wildlife around every corner.
Mirror-calm lakes, temperate rainforest, old-growth pockets, river sections, and mountain backdrops. Wildlife includes beavers, bald eagles, elk, deer, and black bears.
Daytime highs 15–17°C, overnight lows 7–9°C. Expect rain showers — usually short-lived. 15+ hours of daylight. Wind can build on large lakes by afternoon.
20+ free backcountry campsites. First-come, no reservations. Highlights: Amor Lake island, Fry Narrows, Mohun Island (old-growth). A few road-access sites charge fees.
Interactive map of the 47 km counter-clockwise circuit. Click any marker for lake details. Coordinates are approximate — carry the Avenza digital map on the water.
Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors · Route approximate
Travel to Vancouver Island and settle into accommodation near Campbell River or Sayward. Rest up and do a final gear check.
Start: Morton Lake Provincial Park boat launch on Mohun Lake · 10:00 AM
The most demanding day — includes the longest portage and two river sections.
Paddle the final lakes and return to the launch point.
| # | Water Body | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Mohun Lake | Start/End · long narrow lake |
| 2 | Twin Lake | Small; steep portage in |
| 3 | Amor Lake | Sandy beach campsites; Day 1 camp |
| 4 | Surprise Lake | Road-accessible, quiet |
| 5 | Brewster Lake | Large; wind-exposed; paddle early |
| 6 | Whymper Lake | Lily pads; no road access |
| — | Whymper Creek | Two river sections; may need lining |
| 7 | Fry Lake | Watch for deadheads; Day 2 camp |
| 8 | Gray Lake | Brittany Bay Rec Site |
| 9 | Goose Lake | Island campsites |
| 10 | Lower Campbell Lake | Largest; most wind-exposed |
| 11 | Gosling Lake | Uphill portage in |
| 12 | Higgins Lake | Short paddle |
| 13 | Lawier Lake | Steep, rooty portage in — no cart |
Morton Lake Provincial Park
Mohun Lake boat launch, ~27 km northwest of Campbell River
⚠️ Active logging road — headlights on always, yield to logging trucks.
Hwy 1 north through Nanaimo → Hwy 19 north to Campbell River (~264 km, 3.5 hrs). Or take BC Ferries Swartz Bay → Departure Bay, then drive north. Total: ~4.5 hrs.
Book accommodation near the launch the night before. Options in order of proximity:
📅 Book early — May–September fills up fast in Campbell River.
Lower Campbell, Mohun, and Brewster can develop dangerous waves quickly. Paddle these early morning before afternoon winds. Hug the shoreline — never cut across open water in uncertain conditions.
Two mandatory river sections. Scout before paddling. Late May snowmelt = higher flow. Always line the canoe when in doubt. Watch for logjams at bridges.
No bear caches at campsites — hang all food or use a bear canister. Mice are active at night too. Make noise on portage trails.
Leave your route, expected return date, and emergency contacts with someone at home. Cell service is essentially zero on the circuit.
Treat all lake and creek water — filter or purification tablets. Do not drink untreated water.
This portage (0.4 km) is steep with roots and rocks. No canoe cart — carry gear and canoe manually. Allow extra time.
Active logging may occur on weekdays. Drive with headlights on at all times. Yield to all industrial traffic. Conditions can change — check locally.
Late May means 15+ hours of daylight. UV reflects off the water — wear sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat even on cloudy days.
Vancouver Island and BC produce some of Canada's best craft ciders. Stock up before you launch — you've earned it.
📍 Black Creek, BC (Comox Valley)
4-generation family farm. Dry apple cider and apple-cranberry from 80+ acres of blackberries and blueberries. Available at Campbell River liquor stores including Lucky's, Green Rock, and Northgate.
📍 Courtenay, BC
Born from an organic blueberry farm on the Puntledge River. Winemaker-influenced production. Their Polaris iced cider is exceptional. Tasting room opens in May — worth a stop en route.
📍 Saanichton (Victoria area), BC
One of the most decorated cideries in Canada. 50+ varieties of heritage apples on a 10-acre farm. Wassail (spiced, orange peel) and Rumrunner (bourbon barrel-aged) are must-tries. Widely distributed across BC.
📍 Cobble Hill, Cowichan Valley, BC
30+ years, woman-led, multiple award-winner. Heritage cider apples high in tannins. Scrumpy (oak-aged) and Cyser (wildflower honey blend, Viking-style) are cult favourites in BC. Available province-wide.
📍 Victoria, BC
Adventurous blends — Mala-Hop brings IPA-style hopping to apple cider; Coastal Blue adds BC blueberry. Great in cans for portaging (no glass at campsites).
📍 Summerland, Okanagan, BC
Heirloom apples, their own orchard. Clean, crisp, orchard-forward. One of the most accessible mainland craft ciders to find in Campbell River-area stores. Great everyday trail cider.